Grand Expectations— "Soft" openings
September 29, 2009
With so many new restaurants opening in downtown Bellevue, it‘s timely to remind diners to set expectations appropriately. The excitement of trying a new place can be met with disappointment if the experience leaves a little something to be desired. There’s a good reason they call them “soft openings”.
Consider all the moving parts and pieces that take a restaurant from concept to opening. Let’s put ourselves in the shoes of a restaurateur. First there’s the assessment of whether your concept will succeed in this market. Then you’ve got to find a space. Or a developer will come to you, like Schnitzer West came to John Howie; they offered him all four of The Bravern’s restaurant spaces. John decided one would be a big enough challenge for his organization, and so we have John Howie Steak, a decidedly un-gentlemen’s club type of steak house, with an accessible, northwest feel.
Next you have design and construction, which entails everything from perfecting the form and function of a commercial kitchen, to creating a desirable dining environment. If you’re Chad Mackay of El Gaucho, you’ll spend six months sweating every construction detail, push to get open for the holidays, only to find yourself still trying to get your landlord to let you put up a sign so guests can find you – nine months later. If you’re Terrance Brennan of Artisanal Group, you’ll go from raw shell to finished restaurant in an insanely intense four months and one week. Or if you’re Larry Kurofsky of Heavy Restaurant Group, you’ll take on three spaces at once: Barrio, Purple and a third to be determined (wisely held off until after the first of the year). Every one of these proprietors puts their heart and soul into the spaces and experiences they create, and it is an all-encompassing thrill ride of ups (seeing it come together) and downs (dealing with recalcitrant landlords and unreasonable building inspectors). You’d think they’d crossed the finish line with Opening Day.
Hardly. Consider the kitchen: choices on literally thousands of items, everything from the stoves, grills and salamanders, to the mixers, to the walk-in, the dishwashing system, everything to facilitate the transformation of raw ingredients to perfect plates delivered with perfect timing. Think of stocking your entire kitchen at once – and multiply that by thousands: hundreds of pounds of flour, sugar, spices and other staples. Storage systems; knives and implements; pots, pans and mixing bowls. Dishes, glassware, utensils, linens – what kind of table do you want to set? Now stock all the perishables – just the right number of days before opening. And just for fun, try sourcing everything you can from local, sustainable sources – because that’s the right thing to do.
Of course, you need a small army to operate one of these businesses. If you have a long history in this area like Howie has, you can assemble the winners he brought together for Steak’s senior team. But if you’re Terrance Brennan from Artisanal, you either bring out your team from New York (hey guys, you’ll love living in Bellevue! Trust me!), or hire unfamiliar talent from here. Then the kitchen staff must be hired, trained in your methods and approach to food, and cooking by opening day.
Which brings us to the front of house, the ultimate proving ground and the place where guests will form their first impression. And of course, you only get one chance to make a first impression. Is the menu the right offering? Can you find enough experienced servers? Is a week long enough for a group of strangers to become a highly-functioning team? (How long did it take you, in your business, to bring your team to high-performing status?)
So when you’re trying a new restaurant for the first time, try to have reasonable expectations – give them a break. If the service is slow, or they get the plates mixed up, be patient. If you walked out in frustration, try it again in a couple of weeks – they’ll get the kinks worked out, and offer a smoother experience. Don’t be afraid to share your experience with the restaurant – they will appreciate the feedback, and try harder for you next time.
And one last word, a shout-out to our existing restaurants, who have already gone through this proving stage. Don’t forget about Seastar, Tap House, Bis on Main, 520 Bar and Grill, Monsoon East, and all the options in the Bellevue Collection. There are dozens of fine choices – both new and established – right here in downtown Bellevue, which is emerging as the preferred dining destination in Puget Sound. So make your reservations today, and let us know, “How was your meal?”
